Cheap, fun things to do in SW Scotland

_{Pencil Monument in Largs, South West Scotland commemorates the Scottish victory over the Vikings in 1263. Largs has a marina, a wee ferry port, fish and chip shops, and a great gelateria.}

Yes, Scotland’s certainly a popular holiday destination, but lots of folk only head for well known places. Edinburgh, Loch Ness, the Isle of Skye, the Glenfinnan viaduct, you know, the obvious ones. And those places are undeniably fascinating, but they’re not the only interesting things about this magnificent country.

South West Scotland is easy to overlook if you’re travelling from overseas, England or Wales. Aeroplanes go straight over it, and trains, coaches and cars bypass it completely. So, is it any wonder few people know of its beauty?

I’ve lived in this area for four years, and am still astonished by it daily. The abundant nature, beautiful beaches, fabulous small businesses, incredible food and drink, and brilliant transport links are just some of my favourite cheap and fun things to discover in SW Scotland. I wonder what you’ll fancy trying first?

Waterfalls (free)

_{Lynn Falls is a magical spot, hidden deep in ancient woodland. Standing on these slippery rocks, the roar of the water is deafening. You’ll probably get a little damp from the spray too.}

Wherever you’re staying in South West Scotland, you probably won’t be far from a waterfall. Some are hugely tall, gushing between huge boulders, whereas others hide themselves away in leafy glades.

One of my favourites in Ayrshire is Lynn Falls, also known as Lynn Spout, near Dalry. There’s a lovely circular walk from the (small) car park, leading you gently uphill towards the falls. You’ll walk through thick woods, with some stunning, ancient trees that are beautiful at any time of year. And then you’ll probably hear the waterfall before you see it, especially if you visit in summer.

Peaty water foams over pewter grey slabs of rock in a series of steps, before cascading down into the river below. The lacy branches of nearby trees thrums with the energy of the pounding water. It smells peaty, mossy and mineralic all at once—glorious!

_{This is the top of Lynn Falls as the water gathers pace before it slides over the waterfall properly.}

Breakfast rolls (not free)

_{Keeping it simple with this minimalist breakfast roll, with a hunk of square sausage and a secret tattie scone.}

Okay, so this one’s a bit of a cheat, because you can find these all around this beautiful country. But there are some particularly good ones to be found in the cafes of SW Scotland.

What’s that you say? You don’t know what a breakfast roll is? Ah, well, let me describe one to you.

It’s a Scottish morning roll (soft or crispy crust over a fluffy white interior) split and filled with your choice (depending on the establishment) of; bacon, link sausage, square sausage, black pudding, tattie scone, egg.

Now, some people enjoy simply black pudding and egg. Others love bacon and tattie scone. And the correct choice is obviously everything you can persuade the cafe worker to stuff into the roll.

Then apply to face, and mop up with plenty of napkins.

Island hopping (not free)

_{The Isle of Arran away in the distance, as seen from the tiny Isle of Cumbrae. Lots of breathtaking island views like this are possible when you visit SW Scotland.}

Obviously, anything transport related will cost money. But Scottish ferries (usually CalMac) are very reasonably priced if you can travel as a foot passenger, which usually costs less than £10.

Say your budget is £10 per person. Well, for that you could choose to sail from Wemyss Bay (mainland) to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute. Or you could try a voyage from Ardrossan (mainland) to Brodick on the Isle of Arran. Maybe a tiny hop from Largs (mainland) to Millport on the Isle of Cumbrae is more your style.

All the ships have open decks, so you can take in the scenery as you cross the Firth of Clyde. Most of them have kiosks where you can buy soup and a breakfast roll (see above). The lovely staff are always friendly and helpful if you have any questions.

When you get to the island of your choice, you’ll literally get a whole new perspective on the mainland. It’s like going on holiday from your holiday. Make sure you take time to soak it all in.

_{A first glimpse of Rothesay, from the CalMac ferry that connects the Isle of Bute with the mainland. Rothesay has a castle, cafes, bakeries, a brewery, and at least two distilleries.}

Castles (often free)

_{Dunure Castle in South West Scotland. The last time I was here, I saw a stoat in the castle grounds. What a privilege. Dunure has a tiny harbour, pub, smashing cafe and some lovely cliffside walks.}

This one’s an easy thing to do wherever you are in South West Scotland, because you’ll be almost tripping over castles. There’s one practically in my back garden. Many of them are in absolutely spectacular locations and free to wander around.

Do you ever wonder about the people who lived in these buildings? Isn’t it incredible to think we can walk up the same stairs they did, and gaze out of the windows looking at the same views? What hardships did they face that we don’t even have to think about?

_{Full disclosure: Culzean Castle is NOT free to enter, because it’s owned by the Scottish National Trust. But if you do decide to pay, you really do get value for money. You could easily spend the whole day here and not see everything in the house and grounds.}

Gelato (not free)

_{You can enjoy your gelato with a view if you visit Vanilla Joe’s in Irvine. Wander along the Harbourside, passing cafes, restaurants, the museum mentioned below, and a lovely pub} _{until you reach the open sea with views of the Isle of Arran and Ailsa Craig on a clear day. There’s also a sandy beach that stretches for miles.}

Well, you wouldn’t really be on holiday if you didn’t have at least one ice cream, would you? And because of the influx of Italians at the beginning of the 1900s, you’ll often see gelaterias instead of ice cream parlours. The pizza and pasta in general in Scotland is of a very high standard for the same reason.

You’ll find local ice cream wherever you’re staying in SW Scotland, partly because it’s an area known for dairy farming. So, the Italian influence creates the foundational quality of the gelato, and the Scottish influence gives you some wild and wacky flavours. Irn Bru ice cream anyone?

_{Amarena cherry ice cream from The Ice Cream Factory in Troon. Troon’s a lovely wee harbour town with lots of independent shops, cafes and restaurants, plus miles of coastal walks.}

Beaches (free)

_{A seaweed strewn beach, with the Isle Of Arran in the distance. Those tiny figures were the only other people on this huge expanse of sand apart from me.} _{It’s rare to see busy beaches around here.}

For me, one of the absolute best things about South West Scotland is the number of quiet beaches. It doesn’t matter what time of year you visit, you’re unlikely to find them crowded, even in the most popular areas. Most of them allow dogs year round too, though please remember to pick up after your four legged friend.

Some beaches have huge tidal ranges, so they seem to stretch for miles out towards the sea. Others have rock pools full of fascinating creature to watch. And some have friendly wee cafes for a cup of something warming after you’ve hiked along sand dunes.

Which sort appeals to you most?

_{The beaches in SW Scotland are beautiful all year round. I took this photo of the sun sliding into the sea in January.}

Museums (not usually free)

_{The Scottish Maritime Museum in Irvine} _{gives a fascinating insight} _{into the shipbuilding that’s so much a part of Scotland’s identity.}

Most museums will charge an entry fee, but they’re usually pretty reasonable, especially when compared to visitor attractions in other parts of the UK. If the weather’s poor – which it probably will be at some point – it’s definitely worth looking for one near where you’re staying.

I’ve seen museums specialising in printing presses, weaving, maritime history, blacksmithing, and motorsports, and there are even some in old prisons. It’s a great way to dig a little deeper into what makes this incredible country unique.

_{All the exhibits in the Scottish Maritime Museum are well labelled and give lots of social context too.}

What does Scotland smell like?

Ahhh, it smells of so many different things! Pineapple gorse, menthol-y pine, mineral rich water, seaweed, hot sand, salt drenched roses, sweet heather, wet wood, mountain mist, the metallic tang of a busy ferry port mixed with a parp of diesel. Just a few scents off the top of my head.

Scotland is absolutely bursting with artists and creative folk. And some of these wonderful people are perfumers, capturing the scents of Scotland. If you’re wondering what these creations might evoke, how about taking a peek at this article I wrote about Scottish perfumes?

Bonus tip

Remember to check the weather forecast. Then keep checking it. The weather changes really quickly here, so it’s probably worth carrying a raincoat with you, whatever time of year you visit.

So, I hope you’ve got a few ideas of cheap, fun things to do in South West Scotland now. I’d love to hear if you give any of them a try.

Rowan Ambrose

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